Civil War Reproduction Clothing for Kids

Hello SilkBrocade watchers, this is Alexa here to quickly let you know about some Strawbery Banke sewing! For the past week I've been working on children's Civil War costumes, which will be used in the Discovery Center. With the Fitz John Porter exhibit in full swing, we want our young visitors to be able to try on these scaled versions of a Union enlisted man's uniform. The Collections Center has been buzzing with the sound of our seasoned 1975 sewing machine, which has served the museum in making everything from clothing to reproduction bed hangings! So far I have finished one complete outfit (shirt, sack coat, and trousers), but will continue to make more pieces in different sizes.

This has been a wonderful and fun way to connect the current exhibit to our work with historical clothing! Above are some pictures of my completed pieces, modeled on a child-sized dress form outside the Collections Center, Wednesday 29 June 2011.

Feathers, feathers everywhere! Old boxes, new finds.

It has been one of those weeks that has brought a number of significant but small collections items to the forefront, each with a special story to tell.

A pair of Portsmouth-made shoes from the late 1700s, a black hat (see previous post) also made in Portsmouth and this astonishing feather "capelet" from the early 19th century are on our screen this week. We will follow with photographs and details as the research unfolds, but simply had to share these images- this bounty-- from this afternoon.

What do you think of this luxury fashion accessory? Great addition to the exhibition and new materials and palette for the Thread designers. Right now trying to work out all the different birds represented by their feathers. Unfortunately, we appear to have little information on the donor or the wearer. Stayed tuned though, as the Thread team is home to a number of indefatigable researchers.

Victorian Garden Party - Original 19th Century Clothing!

On a beautiful Tuesday afternoon, interns Rachel and Alexa went out to model some of Strawbery Banke's deaccessioned clothing in the Goodwin Garden. The re-created Victorian landscape served as a wonderful backdrop for our 19th-century wardrobe!

Mid- to late 19th century pleated blouse, modeled by Rachel.
~~~~~

Red taffeta bodice with gathered and frilled details, 1887-1890 - modeled by Alexa. There is a detachable standing collar of matching fabric, not shown. Like most of Strawbery Banke's 19th-century clothing, this bodice is very tiny and required a corset to fit a modern figure!
~~~~~

Burgundy heavy silk bodice with velvet and lace embellishment, missing front hook-and-eye closure, 1897. This bodice is an excellent example of an 1890s trend for puffed sleeves, which became more extreme throughout the decade!
~~~~~

Black pinstriped taffeta bodice, c. 1890s-1900. This one demonstrates another 1890s trend - the bodice front is pleated along the top shoulder seams, adding fullness to the bust.
~~~~~

Clothing photographed on site at Strawbery Banke Museum
Photos and styling by Rachel Passannante and Alexa Price
Additional styling by Heather Charles

'70s glam fashion throwback - Dawn Dolls!

Sometimes we all need a little fashion throwback. Turns out that Dawn dolls were a department favorite! Our homage to these tiny proto fashionistas. Check out the runway feature and the disco box.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeut85bBFvc

Silkbrocade wants to know who did you collect? Dawn, Barbie, Chrissy or Bratz.....

Mini Film -Thread: The Story of New England Fashion

Thread: The Story of New England Fashion

A short film by Silkbrocade for Thread

Featuring A Stargirl by the Spruce Campbells

Shoes by Emma Hope (mid 1990s red and white foliate patterned shoe with buckle, above) and James Davies (c. 1740 London Lady's Shoe, silk, linen, crewel embroidery floral pattern, below)

Genevieve, the Ellanam Dress Form Company and the New Look

Re-introducing Genevieve, our French pastoral dress form! We've been researching vintage dress forms lately, and have noticed several similar ones from personal sellers or auction sites. Her shape suggests that she is from c.1950, when Christian Dior's "New Look" had set the trend for fashion that emphasized a pointed bustline and small waist. The setup of multiple adjustable pieces is identical to Acme Adjustable Dress Forms from the 1950s, manufactured by the L&M (Ellanam) Adjustable Form Company in Brooklyn. Genevieve is unique in that she has lost her original covering; a previous owner converted her into a decorative piece by replacing the traditional sturdy fabric with toile paper.

The Ellanam Company became popular at the turn of the century for their revolutionary adjustable mannequins, which allowed seamstresses to make clothing for a more realistic body shape. In 1914 they were even involved in a legal case with the Hall-Borchert Dress Form Company, because both corporations wanted to claim the patent to such a convenient model.

Genevieve is part of a long progression of techniques in the history of fashion construction. One wonders what stylish New Look fashions she might have modeled before she was re-dressed in toile paper!


Above left, a 1910 advertisement for Acme Adjustable Dress Forms from eBay. Above right, an original 1950s Acme form from etsy.com
Below, two New Look outfits by Christian Dior, from 1947 and 1955.





Alexa Price
Strawbery Banke curatorial intern

Genevieve photographed on site at Strawbery Banke Museum by Alexa Price


Other images and information from:
--http://www.etsy.com/listing/66625263/vintage-1950s-acme-adjustable-dress-form
--http://cgi.ebay.com/1910-ad-ellanam-dress-form-/300548235741
--http://awhitecarousel.com/2010/diors-ring-of-petals-flower-women/
--http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f49/40s-50s-style-55054-3.html
--http://books.google.com

Designer Update: Art Nouveau Squid

Recent work from Helena at Art Nouveau Squid.

Helena is one of the creative design team members for Thread: The Story of Seacoast Fashion, and will be working on our "jewel box" installation. Think mirrors, hair combs & hat pins, cufflinks, cane toppers, dressing tables, crystal, gilt, gold, and richly patinaed surfaces everywhere. Some of her recently commissioned work is pictured above. For more see https://sites.google.com/site/artnouveausquid/home